Nallur Kandaswamy Temple

Few places express the soul of Jaffna as completely as the Nallur Kandaswamy Temple, dedicated to Lord Murugan. Its golden gopurams, carved pillars and daily poojas make it the spiritual centre of Tamil Hindu life in the north. The temple’s story reaches back to the days of the Jaffna Kingdom, when Nallur served as the royal capital; the shrine was destroyed during the Portuguese period and rebuilt in the 18th century, in the time of the Dutch.

Visitors are warmly welcome. Dress modestly, remove your footwear at the entrance and move quietly through the rituals. The evening pooja, with drumming, nadaswaram music and incense, is especially memorable, and once a year the temple hosts its great festival, when the whole town gathers in procession.

Nallur Kandaswamy Temple is just 11 minutes’ drive, about 4.5 km, from Ratnagiri Heritage Home Stay in Kondavil, so it is easy to visit in the quiet of the morning and again for the evening pooja. During the festival season, plan to arrive early, as the roads nearby can be busy.